Wednesday, December 28, 2011

Canon's D60 Digital Cameras

!±8± Canon's D60 Digital Cameras

Nick Muskovac, PPSA Palm Harbor, FL wrote very interesting article about Canon`s D60 digital camera. His article is inspired by individual experience and observation.

Author is active user of canon digital cameras. First one he had was Canon D 30. Comparing the canon D30 with D60 Mr. Muskovac finds than, the major difference is that the D60 has much more pixles - 6.3 million pixels which beats the D30 with 3.25 million pixels.

He emphasis that D60 is using the CMOS which draws less power and therefore the camera can shoot more pictures on one battery than most Point-and-Shoot cameras without the loss of image quality.

The major specifications in Mr. Muskovacx` are:

D60 Specifications:

Type: Single Lens Reflex; 36 bit full color; CMOS direct imaging sensor

Compatible lenses: All Canon EF lenses

Lens focal length: 1.6 X indicated lens focal length

Imaging element: High sensitivity high resolution large single plate CMOS sensor

Effective sensor size: 22.7 X 15.1mm

Effective pixels: 6.29 million pixels (3072 X 2048)

Aspect ratio: 3:2

LCD monitor: TFT type color LCD monitor

Picture size: 1.8 inch

Recording method: Media--CF card (type I or II)

Formats: JPEG, RAW

Auto focus type--AF

Focusing points: 3 point (1 + 1)

AF working range: EV0.5 to EV18 (ISO 100)--This is a big improvement over the D30 with a range of EV2 to EV 18.

Focusing modes:

(1) One shot AF: AF locks when focus is achieved

(2) A1 servo AF: Tracks subject movement until the actual start of metering

(3) A1 focus AF: Automatically switches between one-shot AF mode and A1 servo AF.

(4) Manual focus: Manual focusing can be used when focusing mode switch on lens is set to manual focus (M)

Exposure control: 35-zone SPC and TTL open Metering

(1) Evaluative metering

(2) Center partial metering (approx. 9.5% of viewfinder area)

(3) Center weighted average value metering

Exposure modes:

(1) tv (time value) Shutter speed priority

(2) av (aperture value) Aperture-priority

(3) Auto depth of field priority

(4) Full Auto mode

(5) Manual mode

ISO speed range: Equivalent to 100, 200, 400, 800, 1000

Exposure compensation:

(1) AEB +/- 2 stops in 1/2 or 1/3 stop increments.

(2) Manual compensation +/- 2 stops in 1/2 or 1/3 stop increments.

Shutter type: Vertical travel focal plane shutter with all speeds controlled electronically.

Speeds: 1/4000 to 30 seconds. Bulb, and X-sync at 1/200 second.

Self-Timer: Electronically controlled, 10-second delay.

Drive modes:

(1) Single shot

(2) Continuous

(3) Self-timer (10 sec)

Number of continuous images:

Approximately 3 images/second; In One Shot AF mode at 1/250 second or faster, to a maximum of 8 images.

Built-in flash type:

Retractable E-TTL autoflash and auto popup flash.

Guide No. 39 at ISO 100 (ft.)

Recycling time: approximately 3 seconds.

Power Supply: operates from one BP-511 Battery Pack (lithium ion battery)

Number of images that can be taken with a fully charged battery:

540 (50% flash, normal temp.)

Camera Body

Flash contacts:

(1) Accessory shoe: X-sync contacts

(2) Sync terminal (with locking thread) on lower corner of camera body.

External flash system compatibility: Compatible with E-TTL auto sync.

In my opinion, the D60 camera's most valuable specification and feature is, that it will take all of Canon's EF (auto focus) lenses.

This was a very important consideration for me since I already own Canon EOS equipment and the following EF lenses:

20mm 2.8 28-135 IS 4.5/5.6

100mm 2.8 macro 75-300 IS 5.6

70-200mm2.8 100-400 IS 5.6 300mm 2.8

Putting the camera in action he took few shots and analyzed the quality of the pictures. He used the Canon 100mm 2.8 macro lens. Then he explains "Its focal length is 160 mm when mounted on the D60, an ideal macro lens. I use a twin macro flash, which I have been using for years with my EOS 1N. I shoot in the manual mode with this flash, using the guide number to gauge the distance. The shutter speed of the camera is set to 1/200 sec. I vary the f-stop depending on the distance of the butterfly from the imaginary film plane. The f-stop is generally varied between f16 and f25. When the distance to the subject exceeds 1 1/2 feet, I change the ISO setting from ISO100 to ISO200 instead of opening up the aperture. In this manner I could still use a small aperture value and maintain a good depth of field. With the D60 and 6.3 million pixels, I was able to make a very good 10 X 15 inch print using the largest jpeg image storage mode. Figure 1 shows a Coolie Butterfly taken at ISO200, 1/200 sec, f22, and a distance of about 2 feet".

When he used evaluative metering on the snowy egrets against a green background, the egrets were overexposed. Then he concludes that "the same is true to a lesser extent when using Center Partial Metering and Center Weighted Average. To get the proper exposure on the White Egrets, an exposure compensation of -2/3 to -1 stop was used in the evaluative metering mode. I shoot most all my pictures using the evaluative metering mode".

He pays attention to file numbering systems. We may choose from: (1)Continuous. (2) Auto reset. In the Continuous mode the numbering is continuous between cards. Then he points that Canon software assigns the folder numbers. The image number in each successive folder picks up where the previous folder left off, thereby providing consecutive numbering of images. The time/date is also permanently stored with each image file. Convenient storage functions allows to place Images in folders in groups of 100.

In the Auto reset mode the number resets to 0001 each time you insert a new card.

The D60 image numbering system only goes to 9900. It would have been nice to allow for 100,000 images. Heavy shooters will shoot more than 10,000 images in a year.

Here is an example of how the folder and image numbers work:

Folder Image Range

CANON100 IMG_0001 to IMG_0100

CANON101 IMG_0101 to IMG_0200

CANON102 IMG_0201 to IMG_0300

CANON198 IMG_9801 to IMG_9900

CANON200 IMG_0001 to IMG_0100

CANON201 IMG_0101 to IMG_0200

By keeping images in different folders, duplicate image file names can be identified and then renamed if necessary.

The D60's has nice 1.8 inch TFT color LCD monitor, It allows us to review your images right away.

Important is his comment about the battery life Usualy with 50% flash use and review mode on, he usually can perform between 350 and 400 images on one fully charged battery. He concludes "Reviewing the images does use a significant amount of battery power".

According to the author following features of the D60 that I consider important:

1. D60 can use all Canon EF lenses.

2. Changing ISO settings in mid-roll.

3. Review your picture :immediately after making the exposure.

4. Having a built in 1.6 X extender.

5. Shooting 3 images per second and up to eight continuous images.

He gives the D60 a good grade. Most of all he is impressed with the image quality. According to him "the camera has interchangeable Electronic Focus lens capability, and multiplies your long lenses by a factor of 1.6X. Overall it looks that the D60 is a great camera


Canon's D60 Digital Cameras

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Saturday, December 10, 2011

Canon EF-S Macro Lens - 60mm F/2.8 USM

!±8± Canon EF-S Macro Lens - 60mm F/2.8 USM

Not every photographer is a professional. Of this I am guilty.

But I love my Canon EOS 30D. And, while it is not a professional digital SLR camera, I have taken some really great pictures with it. I have even won some awards on different websites as "picture of the day".

Looking for lenses for my Canon dslr led me to investigate the Canon EF-S macro lens selection. I find that EF-S lenses work really well, simply because they are made specifically for my kind of camera. If you own a Canon Rebel, any model, or any of the XXD Canon cameras, you can use these special lenses on your camera.

The technology has been specifically geared toward cameras with a APS-C sensor (that's the sensor that is in the cameras just listed).

To my surprise, there is only one Canon EF-S macro lens available. It is the 60mm f/2.8 USM lens, and it is a dedicated macro lens. You can take photos of really small objects, bugs, flowers, and all manner of little things.

Close-up photography is the reason I actually moved from a point and shoot camera to my first Canon Rebel.

So, finding a macro lens for my Rebel was on my high priority list. I looked at the whole lineup of lenses, some of which cost as much as the camera itself... too much for my budget.

I settled on the Canon EF-S 60mm lens after reading the reviews and user comments about it.

I have never been sorry about that choice. I consider this lens my best one, not just because of the macro photos it produces, but also because it handles other types of images well, too. For instance, when I want to take a portrait of one of the grandkids, the Canon EF-S macro lens is my choice. It is the perfect focal length to get professional type portraits.

I fool around with product shots in my garage where I set up a very crude lightbox, and the 60mm macro is my lens for that, too.

It does not handle landscapes very well, and trips to the zoo find a different lens on my Canon DSLR, but in all, I find that the Canon EF-S macro lens handles most of my heavy work with great results.

In addition, if I plan to upgrade to a newer camera (I have my eye on a Canon 7D, and negotiations with my wife have begun), the EF-S lenses will do just fine.

As a close-up photography fan, I found that the Canon 60mm has really done the job nicely. It has an excellent wide aperture of f/2.8 to provide fast shutter speeds for those quick-moving butterflies. It also produces a nice blurred background, the goal of a decent close-up shot. The USM (ultra sonic motor) gives quick focus, again, nailing the bug shots with a pretty good "keeper" rate.


Canon EF-S Macro Lens - 60mm F/2.8 USM

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Sunday, December 4, 2011

How to Photograph Wild Animals

!±8± How to Photograph Wild Animals

Photographing static objects like bowls of colourful fruit on black Perspex with a stained glass backdrop casting multi-coloured washes across the image is relatively easy - Oh boy, I could be in trouble, I can't believe I just said that? I can just imagine hundreds of 'still life' and portrait photographers saying 'What did he just say, did I hear easy? Who is this guy?'

It is an accepted fact that photographing children and animals is reserved for the brave hearted - with oodles of patience and possibly some encouragement from Jack Daniels. I'm not sure who should take the credit for the phrase 'If you're looking for an organised and a tranquil shoot - stay away from children and animals', but whoever uttered that profundity knew what they were talking about. By the same token there are many photographers and movie makers who have stacked their awards on the mantle piece by producing stunning work.

Don't get me wrong, I'm not trying to prevent you from taking pictures of your Jack Russell or your little toddler or even the neighbours' parakeet - if you're doing it for fun that's cool, but if you decide to take the subject more seriously, you're going to need some help.

The truth is if you're shooting in a controlled environment, you'll most probably have your camera mounted on a tripod with a bunch of assistants moving in and out tweaking the lights, dressing the shot meticulously through the lens creating a relaxed environment. The classic studio shoot. But you have to agree that photographing a Leopard chasing his lunch is a totally different ball game. Hitting a static target at the shooting range is difficult enough, but it takes a special skill to hit the same target if it's on the move. Moving objects create a whole new set of problems and mindset. Instead of the luxury of a composed lit frame with exact apertures and wide lenses, you are thrown into unpredictable moves that directly impact on your film speed, your focus, the amount of available light and the choice of lens. It also drastically increases the production of endorphins that jack up your adrenaline level.

Without getting hugely technical, for you to get a good shot of a moving Leopard, you have to be on a rapid-fire camera with a 100mm to 300mm lens, which is extremely restricting even for the more experienced photographer. If your subject is moving fast you have to frame, focus and fire on the fly (as they say) the majority of time, hoping to God you got it.

Longer lenses need more light than wider lenses. Most wide angle lenses have apertures of between 1.8 and 2.8, whereas 300 to 500mm lenses start with an aperture of between 5.6 & 11- so you do need light. If there isn't the required light aperture, you need to be on very fast film in order to enhance the available light and capture a hit-and-miss series of frames that you will either ditch in the bin or leave the podium carrying the award. Forgive me I'm a kind of purist when it comes to technology, I'm certainly up to speed with digital technology, but the test of the real artist, be it stills or movies - when it comes to measuring the heat of a light, understanding apertures and speed and what the latitude of a film emulsion does for the end product - is the ultimate art.

Okay, so where are we going with this? I suggest you start practicing on Peefer the parrot to get the feel of a moving object. You must understand that Peefer, your Labrador, your child or any other uncontrollable subject is not going to do what you want them to do - so if Peefer offers you a great profile shot, you can put money on it that as you hit the shutter, he will drop out of frame or give you a beautiful close-up of the back of his head. It takes a lot of practice and even more patience to get the perfect shot.

If you really want to learn about composition and action framing, take yourself and your camera off to the local sports stadium and snap at athletes or baseball players in action - it'll be your first step to shooting wildlife stills. Let me know how you do.


How to Photograph Wild Animals

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Tuesday, November 22, 2011

Photographing Butterflies Tips and Suggestions

!±8± Photographing Butterflies Tips and Suggestions

Butterfly photography has been one of the best photo projects that I have ever undertaken. Waiting to photograph butterflies tested the limits of my patience. But the my efforts were well rewarded in the shots that I was able to get. I made it a point to do so with the least expense, so I concentrated on local gardens, local nurseries, botanical gardens and my backyard.

I had done some earlier research to identify the best plants to attract butterflies and several species were readily available in my hometown of Miami Florida. One interesting plant was milkweed (Asclepias family) a hardy perennial. This particular plant is commonly available at many plant nurseries and it is a favorite of the monarch butterfly as well as other species and its seed pods are easily collected for future plantings. Both milkweed and monarchs are common to most of the south but do your own research into plants and species common to your region.

Other useful plants:

Other butterfly plants suggestions are: indian Hemp (Apocynum cannabinum) Butterfly Weed (Asclepias tuberosa) Golden Rod (Solidago sp) and Red Clover (Trifolium pratense).

Strongly suggested is the fire bush (Hamelia patens) not only does it attract butterflies, bees and nectar loving insects, but it's a favorite of hummingbirds.

Monarchs not only uses the flowers of the milkweed for nectar, but als uses it as a host plant for their eggs. The plant's sap gives the monarch a chemical protection, and most birds have learned to recognize that eating them is poisonous or a least distasteful. Monarchs lose this chemical protection at adulthood, but it seems that birds won't take the risk..

Plant the milkweed and other nectar plants in bunches for a stronger attracting effect. To photograph butterflies use a lens in the range of 100mm to 200mm,. consider using fill in flash or discretely adding reflectors to bounce light back into your subject. Do your photography early in the morning when the temperature remains on the cool side. The butterflies will tend to be more at ease and stay in place longer.

Other species that regularly feed on milkweed are the common yellow swallowtail (Papolonidae) and the zebra swallowtail (Eurytides marcellus).

Photograph these butterflies while feeding, laying eggs and mating. Also look for their colorful caterpillars as they feed. Once the caterpillars are ready to pupae, they will form a type of J shape and can be removed to a ventilated enclosure to see the metamorphosis. Do not disturb the caterpillars before they naturally start to pupate, doing so will most likely kill them by not being allowed to reach maturity.

Once they morph into a monarch butterfly, they can easily be handled for a few minutes until they warm up and take flight. This is an easy school project for your kids to showcase a biology project or insect life cycle.

Try to take macro shots to show texture, colors and patterns in both the butterfly and its caterpillars, as well as to include some of the environment.

Note: when you are ready to release a newly hatched monarch female, watch it carefully if there are other monarchs in the area as they will mate immediately after birth and can this can last for several hours.


Photographing Butterflies Tips and Suggestions

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Sunday, November 20, 2011

Knowing Which Digital SLR Camera Lens is Right for You?

!±8± Knowing Which Digital SLR Camera Lens is Right for You?

When shopping for a Digital SLR Camera people often overlook or skimp on the camera's lenses. Camera Lenses serve as the digital SLR cameras "eye," the lens determines what and how your camera will see your subject and how well that view is transmitted to the camera's sensor chip for recording. The way I like to look at camera lenses is as painter's brushes, broad strokes, medium stokes, all purpose brushes, and small detail brushes. There is a lot to learn about digital slr camera lenses and this article will serve as a basic outline to understanding them. The following sections explain the basic types of digital SLR camera lenses, how they work, and how to select them.


Focal Length

On a digital SLR camera the focal length of the lenses measures the distance between the lens and the image sensor, measured in millimeters. Lenses can be classified into subgroups like prime, macro, wide angle, normal, telephoto, and zoom lenses. They are also rated in regards to f-stop or speed an example would be a F2.0 50mm lens or a 1.4F 80mm lens. We will explain this later in this article.

Prime Lenses:

Prime lenses are fixed focal length lenses like a 50mm 1.4f lens. To zoom with these types of lenses you need to use your feet and to get closer or farther away from the subject. Traditionally prime lenses are sharper and faster then zoom lenses. If you are on a budget you can pick up some amazing used older prime lenses off eBay or your local camera store.

Macro Lenses:

Macro Lenses are your detail brushes they enable you to get up close and personal with your subject. These types of lenses are used for extreme close ups on small objects like daisies, pennies, and food but not limited to these types of subjects. Examples of macro lenses are 50mm and 100mm macros. These lenses are also great for selective focus types of photos.

Wide-angle Lenses:

Wide-angle lenses are your broad stroke brushes; these types of lenses have short focal lengths. The short focal length has the visual effect of "pushing" the subject away from you and making it appear smaller. The beauty of wide-angle lenses is you can be relatively close to your subject and fit a broad stroke of the background into the scene.

One problem with wide-angle lenses is known as convergence, a distortion that makes vertical structures appear to lean toward the center of the frame. A way to check if the wide-angle lenses you are interested in has convergence is to take test pictures before buying the lens. With high quality wide angles lenses like Canon L series lenses address this convergence issue well. Examples of wide-angle lenses are 15MM, 17mm, 24mm and 28mm lenses.

Normal Lenses:

Normal Lenses try to mimic how the human eye sees and are some of the most versatile lenses you can use. These are my all purpose brushes, and are somewhere between a wide angle and a telephoto lenses. If you buy just one lens try and buy the fastest normal lenses you can like a 50mm 1.4f lenses. Some examples of normal lenses are 35mm; 50mm, 65mm and some consider a 80mm a normal lens.

Telephoto Lenses:

Lenses with long focal lengths 100mm and higher are called telephoto lenses. A long focal length seems to bring the subject closer to you and increases the subject's size in the frame. Telephoto lenses also give your subjects a graphic look and flatten out your subject. These lenses are my short stroke brushes.

Zoom Lenses:

Zoom lenses are special because they can be very versatile. These types of lenses vary in their focal lengths and come in many in wide-angle, telephoto, and wide-angle to telephoto. In my bag I carry a 17mm to 35mm my wide-angle broad brush, 24mm to 70mm my medium brush, and a 80mm to 200mm my short brush. With these three lenses I get a very board range of focal lengths for any situation. All of my zooms are at least f2.8 through out the lenses range, which means my f-stop can stay constant while I am zooming in and out. These types of lenses are very expensive but so get what you pay for. When shopping for a zoom lenses check out the f-stop range rating. An example is a 24mm to 300mm f3.5-f5.6 lenses meaning the lowest f-stop you can shoot is at the 24mm range of the lenses and when you zoom to 200mm the lowest you can go is f5.6. Zoom lenses can give you flexibility and versatility all in one lenses. When buying a zoom lens try and get one that is made of glass and is the fastest you can afford, you will not regret it.

Understanding what these different groups of lenses can do will help you make more informed decisions on what lenses to purchase and what to put in your camera bag.


Knowing Which Digital SLR Camera Lens is Right for You?

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